The best anti-aging treatments for your skin

It’s a question patients ask me all of the time: “what are the best anti-aging treatments for my skin?”. There are countless anti-aging treatments on the market, and the sheer number of options can be overwhelming. Product reviews help us make choices, but are they really accurate? How many of us have raved about a product one week, only to find that it caused irritation or breakouts the next? In addition, each individual’s skin is unique, and a treatment that works for one person may not benefit another.

Fortunately, there is a better way to determine which anti-aging ingredients are best: look at the science. The three essential anti-aging ingredients that are consistently backed by scientific studies are: 1) sunscreen 2) retinoids and 3) vitamin C. These superstar products help fight aging and keep your skin looking fresh and young.

Sunscreen

The sun causes the skin to age. These changes can appear as sagging, wrinkles, freckles, and/or dark spots. However, sunscreen greatly reduces the amount of damage the sun does to your skin. A large study of over 900 patients in Australia showed that application of daily sunscreen reduced skin aging by 24% (Hughes, M., Williams, G., Baker, P., & Green, A., 2013). Individuals enrolled in the same study had no detectable increase in skin aging after 4.5 years of daily sunscreen use.

Most people slather on sunscreen when they are in direct sunlight, but they often forget to apply when indoors or on cloudy days. High energy visible (HEV) light—the light emitted from phones, computers, tablets, and some overhead lighting—can also damage the skin. Therefore, individuals need to use sunscreen consistently, regardless of the weather or time spent outdoors. 

A good sunscreen contains both UV-A and UV-B protection and is at least SPF 30 or higher. Mineral sunscreens (zinc oxide and titanium dioxide) are preferred over chemical sunscreens due to a better safety profile. The FDA recently raised concerns about chemical sunscreens, after it was found they entered the bloodstream at unacceptably high levels.

Retinoids

There is a good reason topical retinoids are considered the holy grail of anti-aging products. They have a proven-track record of preventing wrinkles, reducing discoloration, and improving overall skin tone. Vitamin A, along with its natural and synthetic derivatives, make up the retinoid family. They exert their anti-aging effects by increasing collagen synthesis in the skin as well as neutralizing free radical production. Topical retinoids are usually available only by prescription, however, one synthetic retinoid—adapalene—is approved for over-the-counter use. 

Retinol is a much weaker form of vitamin A, and is typically added to over-the-counter anti-aging creams and serums. Prescription-strength retinoids are approximately 100 times stronger than their retinol counterparts. For individuals new to retinoids, over-the-counter retinol is a good place to start.

All retinoids have the potential to be irritating to the skin, so care should be taken to introduce these products slowly into your skin care routine. They can also cause significant sensitivity to the sun, therefore, consistent sunscreen use is essential. Finally, retinoids should be applied at night, since sunlight renders them inactive. 

Vitamin C

Vitamin C should be a key ingredient in your anti-aging arsenal. It is a potent antioxidant that has been shown to neutralize toxins and free radicals that accumulate in the skin after exposure to environmental pollutants or UV radiation. While normal skin contains high levels of vitamin C, aged or photodamaged skin is associated with depleted levels. Replacing Vitamin C in topical form can brighten the skin, reduce hyperpigmentation, and improve overall texture and moisture barrier function. Like retinoids, vitamin C serums can be irritating to the skin in some individuals, but they are generally well-tolerated. They should be applied in the morning and combined with sunscreen for extra anti-aging protection.  

To wrap up, the best anti-aging treatments for your skin are sunscreen, retinoids, and vitamin C. Use these three ingredients on a consistent basis and turn back the clock on skin aging.

Watch anti-aging video to learn more:

References

Baldwin, H., Nighland, M., Kendall, C., Mays, D., Grossman, R., & Newburger, J. (2013). 40 years of topical tretinoin use in review. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 12(6), 638-642.

Fitzpatrick, R. & Rostan, E. (2002). Double-blind, half-face study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamage. Dermatologic Surgery, 28(3), 231-236.

Hughes, M., Williams, G., Baker, P., & Green, A. (2013). Sunscreen and prevention of skin aging: A randomized trial. Annals of Internal Medicine, 158, 781-790.

McDaniel, D., Mazur, C., Wortzman, M., & Nelson, D. (2017). Efficacy and tolerability of a double-conjugated retinoid cream vs. 1.0% retinol cream or 0.025% tretinoin cream in subjects with mild to severe photoaging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 16(4), 542-548.

Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical Interventions in Aging, 1(4), 327-348.

Neighmond, P. & Neilson, S. (2019). Confused about sunscreen ingredients? Here’s what we’ve learned. Available online at: https://www.npr.org/sections/health-shots/2019/08/04/747648291/confused-about-sunscreen-ingredients-heres-what-we-ve-learned. Accessed 5/16/20.

Poon, F., Kang, S., & Chien, A. (2014). Mechanisms and treatments of photoaging. Photodermatology, photoimmunology, & photomedicine, 31(2), 65-74.

Pullar, J., Carr, A., & Vissers, M. (2017). The roles of vitamin C in skin health. Nutrients, 9(8), 866.